![]() People always ask, ‘Why?’ What it demands of you, what it shows you are the places that you need to grow within this concept of fear, which is what really keeps people from realizing their greatest potential in this world.”įor 15 years, all Long thought about were big waves. ![]() You learn to control your mind, you control the world and the reality around you. “As twisted as that sounds to some people, there’s no other way to put it. “There was a time when I wanted to see how big of a wave could I ride, how scary of a situation could I put myself in and still have control of the way I react to that situation,” he says. Because riding giants for Long always comes down to one thing: fear. It’s how he deals with the fear of riding waves the size of five-storey buildings. It’s how he makes sense of what he’s chosen to put himself through, where he’s been and where he’s headed next. The next he’s describing the eerie, ghostly power of Cortes Bank, a sea mount 100 miles off the coast of San Diego, the site of perhaps his greatest triumph, an 80-foot wave, as well as his near demise.ĭetails are important to Long. One minute, the 31-year-old is vividly painting a picture of his first session at Maverick’s suiting up in the muddy parking lot, walking out to the ocean in the dark with the foghorn blowing, and paddling out into the cold, rock strewn northern California water. ![]() Like many elite athletes he seems to remember everything, from his first colossal wipeout as a 15-year-old at Todos Santos in Baja California to the “wild, windy, shifty mess” of big waves that marked his winter storm apprenticeship at Dungeons in Cape Town, South Africa. G reg Long revels in the details of his endless winter, a lifelong quest in search of the world’s biggest waves. ![]()
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